Goma Dofu: A Refined Expression of Shojin Cuisine from Sacred Koyasan
Koyasan, a sacred mountain where prayers have been offered for over 1,200 years since its founding by Kobo Daishi Kukai, is also the birthplace of goma dofu (sesame tofu), a cornerstone of traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. Established in 1905, Hamadaya has spent more than a century within Koyasan devoted exclusively to crafting this delicacy. Using carefully peeled white sesame seeds in generous amounts, the artisans devote time and effort to kneading the mixture to perfection. The result is a uniquely smooth yet pleasantly elastic texture—quietly refined through generations alongside the spiritual life of the mountain.
Unchanging Methods and Ingredients for Well-Being
At Hamadaya, the tradition of chanting the Heart Sutra during preparation is still preserved. This is not mere formality, but a mindful act imbued with wishes for the well-being of those who will eat it. The ingredients are simple: sesame, kudzu starch, and water. The kudzu comes from Yoshino, once favored by Emperor Showa, giving the goma dofu its characteristic elasticity and gentle firmness. The water is natural spring water drawn from Koyasan’s bedrock. Without preservatives, and guided by the artisan’s sensitivity to season and climate, each batch is handcrafted to achieve a clean, delicate finish that melts away effortlessly.
A Quiet Luxury that Embodies Shojin Culture
Hamadaya’s goma dofu is both a special delicacy and an everyday taste of Koyasan. It has long been served as hospitality to pilgrims and enjoyed in the daily lives of the mountain’s residents. It can be savored with soy sauce and wasabi for a savory touch, or paired with wasanbon sugar as a subtle dessert. Its natural sweetness and umami shine through in every bite. Rooted in the serenity and spiritual history of this World Heritage site, this dish—preserved for over a century—offers a humble yet profound taste of shojin culture.
